Of course the price tag might be free, but that should not be the only consideration when getting a horse. Often the actual purchase is the cheapest part of horse ownership.

The first thing to consider when you see a horse offered for free is why the owner has decided to offer it as a give-a-way. It is very rare to find a sound, young horse for free. Most free horses are either older, unsound, untrained or have some other factor that makes them valueless.

One common scenario is the horse who has been injured in some way and can no longer be ridden. Sometimes the lameness is temporary and with time and treatment the horse may return to soundness for light riding, or even possibly for more serious work. Other times the lameness is permanent and renders the horse a pasture ornament. Either way you are likely looking at vet bills, supplements and sometimes stall rest to bring the horse back to a reasonable state of comfort. A lame horse costs just as much to keep as a horse who can be ridden.

Another possibility is that the horse is older and is no longer capable of doing what the owner wants to do. Sometimes you can get an excellent horse this way. If the horse is sound it could be an excellent schoolmaster for a rider who is learning to ride. Many older horses are wiser in their ways and can be good babysitters for young riders or riders with confidence issues. The biggest issue is that with age many horses benefit from supplements to maintain their health and soundness. They may be limited in how much work they can do. You also need to consider that there is no guarantee how long the horse will live, so you might be searching for a new horse sooner than expected. If an older horse does become lame it is very difficult to place it in a new home and there is no resale value in the long run.

Many free horses have training issues or are virtually unhandled. While for an experienced horse owner this can turn into an excellent deal, for the average horse person an untrained horse is a recipe for disaster. A horse with issues under saddle could be reacting to a pain-related issue, which can cost a lot of money in vet bills. If the horse is not even halter trained it often takes a long time to fix the bad habits it has learned from not being handled which can be far more difficult with a full-grown horse than with a baby that is still small enough for a human to outmaneuver. Often colts are left ungelded and need a veterinary visit to remove the necessary parts to make them good equine citizens.

As long as you carefully consider the background of the horse and keep in mind that an unrideable horse costs just as much to keep as a sound, well trained horse a free horse might be worth considering. But, if you do not have the experience to retrain a horse, the money to rehabilitate one or the heart to cope with the loss of an older companion you should steer your attentions elsewhere. It is far more sensible to spend a few thousand dollars on a sound, sensible horse who is well trained for your discipline than to get a free horse who may cost you far more in the long run.

Lydia V Kelly is a writer for www.HorseClicks.com, popular classifieds of horses for sale, used horse trailers and land for sale.

The first thing to consider is that you need to make sure your horse is fully prepared for her photo shoot. If the weather is warm enough you should give your horse a thorough bath. Grey horses or horses with white markings benefit from shampoos that whiten the hair. Once your horse is dry you need to groom her as though you were taking her to a show. Keep in mind the way horses from your discipline are turned out for the ring. If they are braided and you have skill in braiding, braid your horse. If they have pulled manes, pull the mane. You want your horse to look as though it is ready to go out and win. Even if your horse is a pleasure horse you want to make sure that there are no tangles in its mane or tail and that it looks its best.

To photograph your horse you will need an assistant who is either good with cameras or with horses. One person needs to handle the horse while the other takes photos.

A digital camera is ideal for photographing horses as you have virtually unlimited exposures available and you can easily change the settings to allow for rapid-fire photographs to get good action shots. You should have a high resolution, preferably 5 mega pixels or higher, to get a good photo that can be edited nicely for internet use.

The first photo you should take is a conformation photo. To get this have your horse stand in the pose that is typical of its breed. This could be square, with front and back feet standing side-by-side, or offset, with the hind legs apart and the front feet square, or open, with all four legs showing, the ones closest to you in a bit while the ones away from you are spread further apart. Some breeds require the horse to stand in a special stretched position. If you are not familiar with setting your horse up this way just stick with the basic square, offset or open positions.

The idea of the conformation photo is to show off how your horse is put together. She should stand as straight as possible without resting any legs. The surface she is standing on should be level so that she does not appear to be downhill. Her neck should be relaxed and if possible stretched forwards slightly to extend it. If you can, try to get a shot with her ears forward and a pleasant expression on her face.

Take advantage of the fact that you can take multiple shots with your digital camera. You can always edit out the bad shots afterwards. Get several shots from both sides so your clients can get a good idea of what your horse looks like. Be sure to bend down a bit, or even kneel so that the camera is looking at the horse straight-on rather than from a downwards angle. This is especially important if you are photographing a pony or small horse.

Next turn your horse loose in an enclosed area. Use your multi-shot option to take a series of photos of your horse walking, trotting and cantering. Try to get trot shots with the horse’s leg extended forward to show off how well she moves. Take as many pictures as you can keeping the image as close in to the horse as possible without cutting off her extremities.

Finally, if your horse is trained you need to tack her up and photograph her under saddle or in harness. Once again take as many pictures as you can. It is easier to weed out photographs that are no good than to have to start over and take fresh photos.

When posting an ad select the photo you feel best shows off your horse. If she is going under saddle be sure to use one with her working rather than just a free shot. Some websites allow multiple photos. If you use this feature make sure that you include at least one conformation shot, one movement shot and one under saddle or in harness shot. Head shots are a nice added touch, but are not good selling photos, so only add them if you have extra room.

Another good idea is to upload your photos to an online photo hosting site. You can then direct inquiries to the site instead of constantly having to attach pictures to your emails.

A good photo will attract buyer to come look at your horse. A bad one will only make them turn away. If you can’t get good photos you are better off not having a photo at all. Fortunately with modern technology and a bit of time you can get the pictures that will make the difference between a no-show and a sale.

Lydia V Kelly is a writer for www.HorseClicks.com, popular classifieds of horses for sale, horse farms and horse trailers for sale.

The farm should be clean and well maintained. That means that the stalls that are being used should be well bedded (any bedding is fine shavings/straw/etc) and be well mucked on a regular basis. Horses that are kept out of doors should have adequate paddock space, or be supplemented with hay. They should all have water at all times both indoors and out. Fencing should be safe and adequate to keep the horses where they belong. No barbed wire or other truly unsafe fencing should be allowed. There should be signs that the owner is making efforts to keep the fencing and barn maintained even if there are things that are evidently in need of repair (hey – we all have fence rails needing repair). The fields should be free of dangerous equipment and other items likely to cause injury to a horse. If horses are routinely kept out of doors 24/7 there should be some kind of run-in shelter available.

Feed and hay should be stored in a safe, clean environment. Grain should be contained in a way that discourages snacking by escapee horses and keeps rodents etc out of it (as much as possible – old freezers are a great way to do this – cheap and easy to get a hold of too). A variety of feed suited to the needs of the various horses at the rescue should be available. A reasonable supply of medication should be available on hand (those medications the rescue owner knows how to use correctly), especially penicillin, bute, worming paste, and banamine (anyone can learn to do intramuscular shots). If a horse needs special medication it should be evident that the medication is on hand and that the rescue knows how to use it.

The horses should be well cared for and happy in their home. Horses with special needs should show signs of having those special needs cared for. The horses should show evidence of having been groomed on a reasonably regular basis. Their feet should be in reasonable condition, showing evidence of regular hoof care (although some horses’ feet will obviously need more care than others). Rescues who have been in residence for an extended time should be in good weight, good health (with the exception of pre-existing conditions), and show evidence of regular care. New rescues of course will be more varied in condition. A rescue that routinely rescues from auctions or other questionable sources should have an appropriate quarantine area.

If the rescue is marketing riding horses there should be an appropriate area set aside for clients to try the horses. This area should be clear of obstacles that could cause injury to horse or rider. Ideally it would be flat, fenced and a minimum of 100’x50’, but that would be pretty flexible. The riding area should be easily cleared of horses (if it is a turn-out area) so that riders can ride without the interference of other horses in the ring loose with them (I’ve seen it and ridden in it before…).

If the rescue accepts stallions there should be safe, well constructed stalls (or at least one stall) available for stallion use. There should be at least one individual turn-out paddock/field with no shared fencelines and preferably electric wire for the stallion(s) to go out in. The rescue owner should have had some experience with stallions in the past before accepting them at their rescue.

If the rescue accepts mares in foal there should be an adequate place set aside for the mare(s) to foal. This could be a foaling stall (no smaller than 12’x12’, preferably bigger – especially for draft mares), or a foaling paddock (a small grass paddock, very lightly used, mucked daily when in use). There should also be a small paddock set aside (could be the foaling paddock – or could be the stallion paddock) for the mare and foal to be turned out individually for the first two weeks so they can safely bond before returning to the herd.

The person managing the rescue should be an experienced horse person with preferably over 5 years of horse experience. This experience should be varied if possible in more than one segment of the horse industry. If they are accepting stallions the manager (or an employee) should be experienced with stallions. If they are accepting mares in foal or youngstock the manager (or an employee) should have some experience with mares and foals.

The horse rescue owner/manager should be able to provide references both horsey and non-horsey. If the rescue adopts out, at least one reference should be from a prior adoptive home. References from the rescue’s regular vet and farrier should be required.

Lydia V Kelly is a writer for www.HorseClicks.com, popular classifieds of horses for sale, horse farms and horse trailers for sale.

There are shows available for riders of all ages and levels of experience. Many farms that teach lessons hold a regular series of schooling shows that often are open to the public. You will also find that many fairs hold low-level horse shows and some areas even have special clubs that host a series of shows through the season.

The first step is finding what shows are available for your discipline. Not all shows have classes for all kinds of horses or riders. If you know of a local barn that specializes in your discipline you can try giving them a call to see if there are any shows in your area that might suit your goals. Another place to look is at local horsey websites where many show organizers will post their shows. If your horses are a part of a specific breed organization try contacting that group and see if they have any events out your way.

Once you have found a show take a look at their class list. It is important to understand what is required in each of the divisions before deciding which ones to enter. The classes are not always what you might expect at a glance. For example, a pleasure class might look like it should be performed out on the trail, but in fact it is in a closed ring with a group of horses who are judged for how quiet and comfortable they are to ride. If you are unsure what any of the classes are contact the show organizer and they will be glad to help you.

Before the show, spend some time practicing the things you plan to do at the show. Make sure that your horse listens well and is used to working with other horses in the ring. If you can, take your horse to a neighbouring farm or two to get him used to working at a place other than your home farm. Not all horses trailer well, so if your horse has not been shipped recently you might want to practice loading him a few times so that you are not stuck with a horse who will not get on the trailer the morning of the show.

The day before the show spend a lot of time cleaning your horse. It is a sign of respect to the judge to present a well-groomed horse. If your discipline requires braiding you should make an effort to braid your horse. Even at the lower levels it is better to show a horse braided if it suits your discipline and the practice is great, especially if you plan to try showing at the higher levels in the long run.

Your tack should also be thoroughly cleaned and polished. Don’t use any products that would make your saddle slippery, you would not want to have a spill thanks to slippery tack. Set aside some clean brushes and bandages to use on the show day.

Before going to bed make sure that you have everything packed up and ready to go. Show mornings are stressful enough without having to race around trying to find things to take with you.

On the morning of the show be sure to plan to arrive at least an hour before your classes are to begin. This will give you time to sign in, get your horse tacked up and warm up. If you are not sure what time you should be there contact the show for an estimate and arrive half an hour earlier than they suggest. It is better to be too early than too late.

When you arrive go to the show office before unloading your horse. They will sign you in, give you your number and let you know where things are at. Once you are signed in return to your trailer and unload your horse. If you have time take your horse for a little walk around the show grounds so they know what to expect.

About half an hour before your classes tack up and start to warm up your horse. Most shows will have a ring set aside for warming up your horse. Keep your ears open for the announcer so you know when your class begins.

In your class relax and just do your best. It doesn’t matter if you win or lose, what matters is that you try your best and have fun.

When the day is finally over give your horse a thorough grooming and let him go and relax. If your horse can be turned out for a while it is a great way to get him to settle down and de-stress. Have your barn manager give him a hot bran mash or some extra treats for dinner if your horse enjoys that sort of thing. Most horses like to have a day off after showing, so don’t make any plans to ride your horse the next day.

Once your horse is back home and settled in you can get a chance to relax too. Take it easy and have fun going over the events of the day. Learn from your mistakes and plan ahead to make sure that things will go even better next time.

Lydia V Kelly is a writer for www.HorseClicks.com, popular classifieds of horses for sale, used horse trailers and land for sale.

The American Veterinary Medical Association Census of 2007 reported that 37% of American households have dogs and 32% of households have cats. However, cats outnumber dogs, 81 million to 72 million. According to the American Association of Human-Animal Bond Veterinarians, the human-animal bond is a mutually beneficial and dynamic relationship between people and other animals. Founded in 1982, the Center for the Human-Animal Bond at the Purdue University School of Veterinary Medicine explores the dynamic relationships between people, animals and their environment. The Delta Foundation was established in 1977 to understand the quality of the relationship between pet owners, pets, and care givers, both human and veterinary. Today, the Delta Society is known for the Human-Animal Health Connection.

Pets can offer a wide variety of physical and psychological benefits to adults and children. What are the physical benefits? Numerous studies have been conducted to research the affects of pets in our lives. Highlights of a few studies include the following results. Pet owners have lower blood pressure as well as lower triglyceride and cholesterol levels than non-owners. Pet owners have better physical health due to exercise with their pets. Dog ownership increases the odds for survival in persons who have had a heart attack from 1 in 15 to 1 in 87. Heart attack sufferers who own a dog have an eight times better chance of surviving one year as opposed to non-owners. Seniors who own dogs go to the doctor less often than those who do not have dogs. Medication costs dropped from an average of $3.80 per patient per day to $1.18 per patient per day when nursing homes in Texas, Missouri, and New York allowed for pets and plants to be introduced into the patient’s environment.

What are the psychological benefits? Pets are stress busters. “Can you really look at a sleeping cat and be tense?” asks Jane Pauley. They also help us relax and focus our attention on them and not our worries and concerns. When I return home from a challenging work day that was topped off with navigating stop and go traffic snarls, my cat, Lexie Lee, changes my mood immediately. I bet my blood pressure drops as well! When we are with our animals, we can take our masks off and let our guard down and just be true to ourselves.

My beloved cat, Tatianna, did not care if my hair was unkempt, my spirits depressed, or my face a fright! She was always by my side, blue eyes focused, content to sit and purr on my lap. Pets lift our spirits by decreasing feelings of loneliness and isolation.

Pets make us laugh. All I have to do is get out Lexie Lee’s feather toy that dangles on a pole, swing it around the room a few times, and watch her acrobatics in catching the feathers, and I am laughing. Pets offer us unconditional love.

Just being able to pet them and having something to touch is an important part of our psychological welfare. When I need a break from my high tech-low touch work, I know Lexie Lee will eagerly join me on the couch to be petted or brushed. Pets give us a safe environment to express our thoughts, fears, and feelings, and we will not be judged, but supported by their mere presence. We can rehearse difficult and challenging conversations with them like asking for a raise or dealing with a family problem. I have rehearsed public speeches with Lexie Lee, and she never heckles me! Pets help us feel safer in our homes — especially when we have dogs to guard us. We feel less likely to be a victim of crime when we are walking a dog.

Pets teach children to be caregivers, to be empathetic, and to learn responsibility. Pets can help us adjust to serious illness or death—especially children who face losing a parent. They can help all of us learn to love again after devastating personal losses. I credit Tatianna for standing by me through the entrance and exit of people and pets in my life including the deaths of my father and boyfriend as well as the deaths of beloved cats, Noelle, Taittinger, and Marnie. Tatianna had an ongoing repertoire of joy to share with me and was destined to draw on it indefinitely for my benefit and healing.

In nursing homes, residents are more apt to smile, talk, reach out to people, be attentive, and be alert. They are less depressed if pets are on the premises. Pets can also give the elderly person a reason for living and a reason to get out of bed since the animal needs daily attention. My ninety-year-old mother’s schedule revolves around feeding and caring for her companion dog, Packer.

When I have been at the computer keyboard for hours, answered one hundred emails for the day, and attempted to return voice mail messages, only to leave another voice mail, my bond with Lexie Lee is a calming and centering force in my life. She is my stress buster. With her hanging over my lap or sleeping a few feet from my desk, I am truly connected to love and to life.

Linda A. Mohr is the award-winning author of Tatianna ? Tales and Teachings of My Feline Friend and Catnip Connection blog for Seattle Press-Intelligencer, a professor at Northwood University, and the co-founder of Pet Apothecary. She is a member of Cat Writers? Association with human-animal bond expertise. Visit Linda Mohr or Catnip Connection.

We invited staff from our vet’s office, friends and neighbors who would understand. We laid out pictures of Max, we shared a story I had written in his honor and we went outside and released balloons. As a family and as a community, we laughed, cried and celebrated. For us, it provided a sense of peace and acknowledgement of the loss of a relationship that had been a constant and significant part of our lives. To my mind, that’s not crazy. However, not everyone in our society respects the loss of a pet as a serious event as I was soon to be reminded when I ran into another neighbor the next day.

I had tried to keep our ceremony low-key, but she had found out. “I don’t get it. He was just a dog.” At that moment, I could have felt angry, hurt or crazy. Instead I was filled with a deep sense of compassion that she would never know the unconditional love, acceptance, fun and joy of having an animal be a part of her life. Before you react angrily in a situation like this ask yourself, “Is it crazy to feel sad about losing a relationship that brought you comfort and happiness or is it crazy for a person to try to minimize your loss because they don’t understand it?” If you accept your feelings as normal, you will make huge strides toward healing.

In my life, I have experienced both animal and human death -the first most dramatic being the sudden death of my father from a heart attack when I was only 9. Later I mourned the passing of grandparents, friends and several family pets. In my experience, the difference between human and animal death is just a matter of degrees. There is more chaos for a longer period of time after you lose a person, but the deep sorrow and stages of grief — the denial, anger, bargaining, depression and acceptance — are very much the same. Am I saying there’s no difference between losing a person and losing a dog? Of course not. But when you are surprised by the powerful feelings you experience after a pet loss, you may try to hold their feelings in, which only proves to intensify them.

Celebrating your pet’s life is a healthy way to channel your feelings, but for the most part, pet owners have been left to their own devices which can feel isolating and lonely.

I remember when I had to put down our family’s first Airedale Terrier. I felt extremely alone because my husband was out of town and my regular vet wasn’t there. That’s because Bernie had become ill suddenly and I rushed her to a 24-hour emergency clinic near our house. After first being told Bernie was fine and just needed fluids, I left to take care of my son.

Then I was called backed just a short time with the perfunctory statement that I better get there NOW because she needed to be put down. I felt I was being pressured into a decision I wasn’t ready to make. I finally let her go, but after the experience, I was inconsolable. Making decisions like these are hard enough, but when you’re in the midst of turmoil, your grief and pain can be greatly exacerbated.

Perhaps things are changing now. Recently, I had an opportunity to tour a new pet funeral facility that opened in a nearby community. The man who owns the facility comes out of the human funeral business and the same kind of care and concern for the deceased and the family is evident in his company. I didn’t come away feeling like this was something just for wacko’s who dress up their pets, but maybe it was s step towards acknowledging pet loss as a normal, significant event in our lives. I wish there had been a place like this when Bernie passed so I would have been left with more than the clinic staff asking me for $824.93 and “disposal instructions.”

I know that the time will come when I will have to say goodbye to my dogs, Amber and Krissy. Now I feel more prepared though. I will grieve and I will celebrate and I will not feel crazy. I’d only be crazy not to.

Robin Reynolds is an award-winning writer who has more than 25 years of experience writing in a variety of formats. An Airedale Terrier lover since youth, Robin lives in Tempe, AZ with her husband, teenage son, and two Airedales. Visit Nice Creative and Life to Max.

Many pet kennels are intended for dogs and cats. Pet kennels are used when traveling your pets. Pet kennels are basically at the top of the list in terms of pet necessities. In order to have a harmonious relationship with your pet, you should be able to choose the pet kennel that is suitable for them

Listed below are different types of pet kennels.

• Shelter Logic Dog Kennels: This dog kennel is quick and easy to assemble. The steel mesh kennel provides optimal security and air flow for the pets. It has a 24 inch oversized wide entrance. It is designed in order to provide an easy way for cleaning pet litter.

• Petmate Vari Ultra Kennel: This versatile and convenient kennel is great for crate training and auto transportations as well as airline transportations. It has a covered door with a squeeze-latch entrance and a sleek design for safety. It has an interior edge moat that is suitable for keeping pets dry. Aside from this, it also captures all the waste materials of your pet while travelling or on the journey.

• 5.5’x 4’x 8’ Dog Kennels: This dog kennel is built with 3 diameters of wire mark steel and sturdy 3 squared mesh. It also has a snap roof style, solid welded entrance panel with push button and a waterproof polyethylene roof cover.

• Sky Kennel: This pet kennel is both suitable for comfortable car and air travel. It has a dual bolted door handle as well as waterproof covers. It is easy to assemble even without using any type of Do-It-Yourself tool.

• Remington Portable Dog Kennel: This portable dog kennel is made from high-impact and durable plastic. This type of kennel has air flow ventilation on its back part and on its sides, for maximum pet comfort.

• Traditional Doskocil Cab Kennel: This fashionable and functional transport kennel is comfortable for small cats and dogs. It is safe because it has the following safety features for your pets: seat belt slit, quick-latching, storage compartment, and shoulder straps. It also has a secure door latch in order to keep the pet inside the kennel.

• Petmate Classic Pet Kennels: This extra high, versatile and durable carrier is perfect for taking any kind of pet to their veterinarian, or on pet vacations as well as pet shows. Classic pet kennel is for pets that have about 20 ? inches or above height. It can also be easily converted to bed and pet shelters.

• Green Giant Pop-up Kennel: This type of kennel is perfect for RV, traveling, camping, and beach purposes. This green giant pop-up kennel is made from sturdy frame metal, Velcro, and nylon zipper. Its also has a rear and top storage compartment.

• Carry and Fold Kennel: This type of kennel features exceptional strength style and stability, making it a must-have for any pet traveler. It has a strong wire spacing handle that can even hold various types of dogs. This carrier is built with a unique lack system for dog safety.

• Kennel Cab: This type of kennel has side latches. It is also equipped with storage and seat belts that will keep your dog happy and safe. This kennel cab is made from high strength plastic and is easy to clean. Thus, Kennel Cab has ventilation for all its sides, handles and pet dish storage.

• Deluxe Wire Kennel: This collapsible kennel promotes easy access for both its front and back doors. This kennel is made from sturdy wire and moat plastic. Aside from this, the Deluxe Kennel has a smooth curved corner that eliminates clothing snags and scrapes. It is also ideal to use outdoors, indoors or even in trainings.

• K9 kennel: This chain-link k9 kennel provides dogs with the luxury of outdoor and enclosed areas. It comes with a patented style that is secure. It even has a strong rounded corner and a sturdy frame steel. It has a polyethylene panel cover as well as a sun cover.

• Champion Box Kennel: This carrier has the most economical, high quality and convenient pet kennel advantage. This box kennel has a rollout chain and tie-down garment. It has two extended base supports that elevate the kennel wall. The base supports provide easy cleaning conveniences.

• Uptown Pet Kennel: This kennel is easy to assemble without the need to use any other tool. It is luxurious for dogs that have a height of 251/2 and above. It has a square safety corner made from wire, along with polyethylene plastic. Thus, the door of this pet kennel is made from an automatic lockable metal latch.

For more information on Different Brands and Types of Pet Kennels please visit our website.

If you are up on pet hygiene you may be able to see these little parasites before they decide to take up residence in the inner ear. Parasites, especially bacteria are very small. It is best to use a magnifying glass, and you may still miss them. Another leading cause of bacteria in the ear is water.

In rare cases, a blood vessel on the ear can burst to allow a large amount of blood to congeal in the ear. Surgery usually takes care of this outer issue, but this doesn’t resolve the inner ear. The inner ear can be affected with several things. Water in the ear can be a main cause. The bacteria that live around water can get into the ear. Typically, a dog is more prone to water issues because they tend to swim, but if you bath your cat, the water could cause damage if it gets in the canal. The water has to get out somehow, usually through evaporation. However, if the environment doesn’t allow for evaporation, the bacteria or other organisms can cause an infection in the inner ear. This happens when the water remains in the ear longer than it should. One of the reasons it can be detrimental is the growing of more bacteria. Bacteria replicates extremely fast.

So how do you treat an ear infection? Well, first you need to know that there is one. Then you can treat the ear infection with topical ointments that will kill bacteria. There are also sprays available if that works better for you. When the ear tissue is swollen then you need a little more help than just ointment. Antibiotics administered orally will help to gain control of a deeper infection. Most dogs and cats are going to be on this medication for ten days. In some cases, the topical ointment or spray can cause further damage. It is important that when you use these medications you clean out the ear canal by flushing. Flushing means that you place water at pressure to flush the puss and bacteria out of the ear. Flushing should be done by the vet. Most dogs and cats will not sit still long enough and get rather irritated with the procedures, so sedation works better.

The last method of helping your pet is surgery. If the other options have not worked or your pet has seen a great deal of infections in their lives there could be an underlying cause that you don’t realize. Some dog or cat ears can grow with a defect or just have a small inner ear. This can cause a build up of debris like bacteria. The scar tissue which can result from multiple ear infections can also trap the bacteria to the point of causing severe pain for your pet. When this happens surgery to remove the scar tissue or to correct the imperfection in the ear canal is suggested. Your vet should explain the entire procedure to you and the benefits you pet can gain. With most dogs or cats after the surgery and healing process you can see a significant change. First you dog or cat will no longer be in pain. They will be happier after the surgery. They may also have an improvement regarding their hearing. They may answer you more often or come when you call at a softer voice.

Dogs and cats tend to heal rather quickly from surgery and you can usually notice an improvement within a few weeks with their hearing as well as behavior. Most animals that have pain will have an altered temperament. This can be a sign that something is wrong. Even though the dog or cat may have surgery there is still a potential for other infections. It is up to you are the owner to make sure you are providing the best health care and proper visits to the vet’s office. Proper care can include frequent washing of the ear surface especially after a day outdoors.

David Lee is the owner & designer of several pet sites. Find info on health like cat kidney disease, or accessories like cat furniture, cat trees and pet steps or for dog lovers German Shepherd training

When you travel with your pet, you need to worry about more than your own safety. Be sure you have a secure crate or a harness for your dog that can be attached to the seatbelt. Make sure your dog has adequate water available at all times, as well as something familiar like a blanket or toy. Give them enough room to move safely. If you are using a crate, make sure there is nothing inside your dog can hurt themselves on and that it is strong with convenient handles. The crate should be well-ventilated. Don’t forget to mark the outside of the crate with the words “Live Animal” as well as your name, address and telephone number. Double check that your pet is wearing his collar with an ID tag, so if somehow you do get separated, you’ll be able to find him later.

Before you start your long road trip, take your dog on a few short day trips to acclimate him to the car. Some dogs get nervous in the car, others get motion sickness. If you find this out before your trip, you can get a nausea medication from your vet. If your dog gets overexcited at the mere suggestion of a car ride, and once in the car he won’t settle down, you may be better off putting him in a boarding kennel, hiring a pet sitter for them, or crating them for the trip. You can also ask your vet for methods to keep your dog calm on the trip. Besides making the trip easier on the dog, it will keep both of you safe so you don’t spend time worrying more about Rover than your driving.

Make sure you plan well enough ahead of the trip and that you can bring your pet with you into lodgings. A lot of hotels nowadays are pet friendly and you can easily find them with a little searching online. Bring plenty of ‘pooper scooper’ bags as well so that you can keep others from stepping in it. Also, when traveling, look for places off the side of the road to stop and let your dog go to the bathroom. While pet friendly areas at rest stops are nice, they’ve been used by other animals that may not be so healthy. Always bring two leashes with you and make sure it is secure to your dog’s collar and you have a good hold of it before you release your pet from the car.

If the weather is hot when you’re traveling, don’t leave your dog inside. Even cracking a window may not provide enough ventilation. Cars can overheat on a hot day very quickly, and even though you were only popping inside somewhere for just a second, that may be long enough to cause harm to your pet. If you have someone else traveling with you, maybe they can either stay in the car with your dog, or run the errand for you. If that is not a possibility, make sure your animal is secured and has enough water, then leave the windows open enough to provide adequate air circulation. And don’t get side-tracked and be gone too long.

For more information on dog & cat health, Dog Illness, Dog Sickness or cat health, feline health check out these sites. You can also find great cat furniture, cat trees, pet carriers and pet steps for your pet.

Fleas and Your Pets

Unfortunately, your furry pet is the perfect home for fleas. When a flea lays its egg in your pet’s fur, the fur serves as an incubator that helps the eggs hatch. Of course, some of the eggs may fall off from your pet and they still may hatch. This is why you might find eggs or fleas somewhere other than your pet. Most fleas, however, remain attached to the pet’s fur securely.

Fleas in Your Home

If your home has become heavily infested with fleas, you might actually find some small brown worms crawling about. These worms are actually the fleas that have entered the larvae state. These worms need blood in order to survive, so they will search endlessly or a host in order to stay alive. Until they find a warm blooded host, they can actually live off of the dried feces that have been left behind from adult fleas and can even survive by eating the flakes of skin that you leave behind or even the dust balls that accumulate under your bed. In addition, they can live for up to two months without eating anything. So, waiting for them to die of starvation is something that probably isn’t going to happen.

Getting Rid of Fleas

Unfortunately, getting rid of fleas is not always an easy process. In fact, you might have to bring in an expert to help you get rid of the pests if your infestation is too severe. Nonetheless, there are a few things you can try on your own first. These include:

• Spray your home with a flea killer or fog your home, but be certain to remove all pets and children first because these products are quite toxic.

• Give your pet a bath with a flea shampoo. Be certain to use a shampoo that kills adults as well as eggs and larvae.

• Spray for fleas on the outside of your home. This is particularly important if your pet goes outside from time to time, as fleas hanging around the house can easily hitch a ride back inside.

• Vacuum your carpet thoroughly. Cut up pieces of a flea collar and place them in your vacuum bag so any surviving fleas that are sucked up will also be killed.

• Start a regimen that will prevent fleas from taking over your home again. Your pet is the number one source of flea infestation, so bathe it with a flea killer on a regular basis and talk to your vet about other flea preventative products that are safe for your particular pet.

The true key to flea control is to take preventative action. If you find yourself facing a flea problem, however, be certain to clean your home and your pet thoroughly and to vacuum regularly in order to get rid of the pests for good.

CS Swarens is the president of Find a Pet Online. 800 998-7065 For additional information on dogs, cats, birds, horses, and exotic pets visit the internet’s pet resource including pet classifieds at http://www.findapetonline.com. Research over 430 pet breed profiles at http://www.findapetonline.com/breeds.html